Why Silicones and UV Filters Are in the Spotlight

Silicones and UV filters are two of the most commercially and technically important ingredient categories in men’s grooming today — and, not surprisingly, they’re also two of the most scrutinised by regulators.

For formulators, the relevance is clear. Silicones form the backbone of sensory design in men’s skincare and haircare. They make gels glide effortlessly, keep serums light, deliver a clean dry-down, and give styling products that signature smooth finish without greasiness. They’re the invisible texture-makers that define how a product feels, not just how it performs.

UV filters play an equally critical role. The male consumer wants daily SPF protection, but he will not tolerate heaviness, white cast, or tackiness. The filters and film formers behind lightweight, matte-finish sunscreens and hybrid moisturisers are what make them wearable — and compliance with new regional limits is what makes them saleable.

Yet both categories now sit at the centre of evolving global regulation. Environmental safety, ingredient transparency, and human health assessments are driving major updates across the EU, Australia, and the US. For brands formulating for men’s skin and hair, understanding these changes is no longer optional — it’s fundamental to responsible innovation.

The following analysis breaks down what’s changing, when it takes effect, and how formulators can stay compliant without sacrificing performance or sensorial excellence.

Silicones and UV Filters: What Men’s Care Brands Need To Know Now

Regulators in the EU, US and Australia have all tightened expectations around cyclic silicones and UV filters. Here is a clear, practical read on what changed, the timelines that matter, and how to adjust formulations and claims without losing performance.

Why Men’s Care Is Uniquely Exposed

Men’s grooming products prioritize lightweight, fast-absorbing textures that feel invisible on skin and hair. Cyclic silicones (D4, D5, D6) have been formulators’ go-to for achieving that “barely there” feel in oil-control moisturizers, matte hair clays, and stick deodorants. Similarly, achieving high SPF protection without the heavy, white-cast finish that men reject has meant relying on specific UV filter combinations—many of which are now restricted or pending regulatory limbo.

The stakes are high: men’s grooming represents one of the fastest-growing segments in personal care, but performance expectations remain unforgiving. A reformulation that adds even slight tackiness, heaviness, or visible residue can tank repurchase rates overnight.

Cyclic Silicones: Where the Rules Now Stand

EU: D4, D5, D6 Get Broader Restrictions and Firm Deadlines

The EU first capped octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) at 0.1% in wash-off cosmetics from 31 January 2020 under Regulation on Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) Annex XVII, after persistence and bioaccumulation concerns surfaced in environmental risk assessments.

In 2024, the Commission extended restrictions to leave-on uses and brought cyclohexasiloxane (D6) into scope. Commission Regulation (EU) 2024/1328 adds D4, D5 and D6 to REACH Annex XVII with staged compliance dates: new products must comply by mid-2026, and sell-through of existing products ends by mid-2028.

Practical upshot: Leave-on facials, hair styling products, antiperspirants and beard care that relied on these volatile siloxanes need reformulation or substitution strategies now.

Australia: Environmental Lens and Supply-Chain Diligence

Australia does not copy the EU restriction outright, but the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) expects introducers to assess persistence, bioaccumulation and environmental hazard potential. Guidance and categorisation updates emphasise demonstrating low environmental risk for new introductions, while state and territory controls can also apply. If you rely on cyclic siloxanes, keep documented risk justifications and alternatives analyses on file.

What This Means for Men’s Categories

Men’s leave-on formats are the most exposed:

Matte serums and oil-control moisturisers that used D5 for slip and fast break
Stick deodorants that used volatile siloxanes for glide
Light hair styling products that depended on D5/D6 for spread and dry-down
Beard oils and balms formulated with cyclics for non-greasy finish

Transition now to non-volatile silicone elastomers, light esters, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane or biotech squalane to preserve sensorials while staying compliant. Documentation should map one-for-one replacements with comparative stability and performance data to support any continuity claims.

Silicone Alternative Performance Benchmarks

Here’s how leading alternatives stack up against D5:

Isododecane

Matches D5’s volatility and dry-down speed
Ideal for aerosol and spray formats
Compatible with most actives and fragrances

Silicone Elastomers (Dimethicone Crosspolymers)

Deliver slip without volatility concerns
Excellent for leave-on face products
Slightly heavier feel than D5; blend with lighter esters to compensate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride + Lightweight Esters

Blend mimics D5 spread with better biodegradability
Cost-effective for mid-tier brands
May require additional preservation strategy

Squalane (Biotech-Derived)

Natural feel, excellent glide
Compatible with “clean” and beard care positioning
Premium price point but strong consumer appeal

Key testing parameters: Measure spread rate (mm²/10 seconds), absorption time to non-tacky finish, and coefficient of friction for shave glide products. Benchmark against your D5 control formulas using trained panels familiar with men’s sensorial expectations.

UV Filters: Diverging Transatlantic Frameworks and Tightening EU Limits

EU: Revised Limits for Legacy Organics, Keep Watch on Annex VI Updates

The Commission has reduced maximum concentrations for several legacy filters and clarified combinations based on Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) opinions. Highlights:

Octocrylene: Maximum 9% in face products and 10% in body products, with attention to photo-stability and potential impurities.

Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone): Maximum 0.5% in face products and 2.2% in body products, reflecting sensitisation and environmental concerns. Labels must reflect restricted uses where applicable.

Homosalate: Restricted to 0.5% in face products placed on the market, effectively eliminating high-load homosalate face sunscreens and pushing brands toward other UVB filters.

Keep a standing watch on Annex VI amendments and SCCS opinions when planning long lead-time launches. Cosmetics Europe publishes consolidated updates quarterly.

United States: Monograph Modernisation Stalled, Creating Formulation Constraints

FDA’s 2021 proposed order kept only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in the Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective (GRASE) bucket. All other common organic filters—including avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, and homosalate—require additional data, and there has been no subsequent reclassification to GRASE as of October 2025.

This creates a practical barrier: brands launching new over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen products must either use mineral-only systems or include organic filters knowing they lack final GRASE status, which carries regulatory and market risk.

Practical implications: Many men’s SPF moisturizers and tinted sunscreens in the US market use “hybrid” systems (minerals plus organics) to balance aesthetics and SPF performance, but these products exist in regulatory uncertainty. Formulators selling US OTC sunscreens should weight portfolios toward mineral systems with advanced dispersion technology, film-formers, and tinting to overcome aesthetic challenges, or maintain robust safety dossiers for organic filter use with clear labeling.

Australia: TGA Regulates Sunscreens as Therapeutic Goods

Primary sunscreens and many secondary high-SPF products are listed or registered medicines on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG). Sponsors must use permitted filters and comply with the Australian Sunscreen Standard, with Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) guidance covering claims, testing and labelling. Cosmetic secondary sunscreens with lower SPF can be excluded, but ingredient introduction still sits with AICIS. Build your product plan around TGA category and ARTG route from day one.

Market Impact by Region

The men’s grooming category represents different opportunities and challenges across regions:

EU Markets have led in “clean” positioning and environmental transparency, making the silicone and UV filter transitions a potential marketing advantage rather than pure cost burden. Brands can lead with sustainability narratives.

US Men’s Consumers prioritize performance and results over ingredient stories, requiring seamless sensorial transitions. A reformulation that looks good on paper but feels different on skin will fail regardless of regulatory compliance.

Australian Regulations create complexity for smaller brands serving multiple markets, often forcing difficult decisions about regional SKU proliferation versus simplified global formulas. Many mid-size brands find the TGA therapeutic goods pathway prohibitively expensive for men’s secondary SPF products and opt to stay below SPF thresholds.

Compliance Timelines at a Glance

EU Silicones:

D4/D5 wash-off ≤0.1% already in force since January 2020
D4/D5/D6 extension to leave-on under Regulation 2024/1328 applies to new products from mid-2026
Market withdrawal of non-compliant existing stock by mid-2028

EU UV Filters:

Annex VI limits for octocrylene, benzophenone-3 and homosalate already amended
Check latest consolidated Annex VI before artwork lock
Monitor SCCS opinions for emerging restrictions

US Sunscreens:

Only ZnO and TiO₂ considered GRASE
Other filters remain pending additional data
Risk-manage formula choices and claims accordingly

Australia:

Determine if your product is a therapeutic sunscreen under TGA first
Use permitted filters per Australian Sunscreen Standard
Meet testing and labelling requirements
Ensure AICIS introduction category coverage for all inputs

Action Timeline for Brands

Q4 2024 to Q1 2025 (Now)

Audit current portfolio for D4/D5/D6 content in leave-on products
Identify US products with non-GRASE UV filters
Begin alternative ingredient screening and sensorial benchmarking
Engage R&D and procurement on raw material transitions

2025

Complete reformulation R&D for EU leave-on silicone products
Finalize stability and compatibility testing for new systems
Update Product Information Files (PIFs) with new safety and performance data
Determine multi-region SKU strategy: global formula vs. regional variants
Lock supplier agreements for alternative ingredients

H1 2026

Launch EU-compliant leave-on products before mid-2026 deadline
Transition marketing, sales training, and retail education materials
Update packaging and INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) declarations
Brief retail buyers on performance parity testing

2026 to 2028

Manage sell-through of non-compliant stock (ends mid-2028 in EU)
Monitor for additional SCCS opinions and Annex VI updates
Track US FDA developments on organic filter GRASE status
Evaluate cost structures and pricing strategy for new formulas

Formulation Playbook for Men’s Brands

Replace Volatile Cyclics Without Losing Slip

Benchmark sensorially against D5 using trained panels and instrumentation. Test ester blends, low-viscosity alkanes, silicone crosspolymers or biotech squalane in typical men’s formats:

Face: Oil-control moisturisers, matte primers, tinted creams
Hair: Light pomades, texturising sprays, dry shampoos
Body: Stick deodorants, body lotions with athletic positioning
Shave: Pre-shave oils, glide gels, post-shave balms

Validate shaving glide, anti-tug and quick-dry performance to protect Net Promoter Score (NPS) in men’s routines. Document PIF updates to support EU audits post-2026.

Build EU-First SPF Architectures

Shift away from homosalate in face products and rebalance with modern filters where available, or lean into mineral or hybrid systems plus film-formers to hit SPF and Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD)/PA targets with acceptable aesthetics.

Keep octocrylene within amended limits (9% face, 10% body) and prove photostability when pairing with avobenzone. Consider encapsulated or stabilised avobenzone systems to reduce octocrylene dependence.

High-performance hybrid approach: Combine 15-20% zinc oxide (micronised, surface-treated) with lower levels of approved organics, silica microspheres for mattifying, and iron oxides for tint. This delivers SPF 30-50 with UVA protection and a finish men will tolerate.

Plan Multi-Region SPF Portfolios

Create separate EU, US and AU variants early in the development cycle:

EU: Can use a wider range of organic filters but with tighter concentration limits; leverage newer filters approved in Annex VI
US: May require mineral-led systems to align with GRASE status; invest in dispersion technology and sensory modifiers
AU: Requires TGA conformity and ARTG listing or registration where applicable; budget for regulatory submission costs

This strategy avoids last-minute artwork rework, packaging waste, and costly product recalls. Many brands find 2-3 core SKUs with regional formula variations more efficient than a single global formula that satisfies the lowest common denominator.

Claims and Labelling Discipline

Audit INCI lists and claims against the latest EU Annex VI entries and SCCS notes, US FDA monograph constraints and GRASE status, and TGA approved terminology for Australian therapeutic goods.

Bake compliance checkpoints into your Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) system before artwork approval. A claim like “fast-absorbing, non-greasy” requires documentation that the reformulated product matches or exceeds the original formula on these attributes.

What to Tell Retail and Consumers

Performance Preserved, Environmental Profile Improved

Explain the shift away from certain cyclic siloxanes as an environmental upgrade with no loss of spread, glide or finish. Have sensorial A/B data ready for buyers. Blind panel tests showing equivalence or improvement build confidence.

Sample positioning: “Our new formula uses plant-derived and advanced silicone alternatives that match the lightweight feel you expect, while significantly reducing environmental persistence.”

Safer, Smarter SPF

Clarify that updated UV filter limits reflect evolving science on skin sensitivity and environmental impact, and that your new systems deliver equal or better UVA protection with cleaner INCI lines and verified photostability.

Sample positioning: “We’ve optimised our SPF system using the latest-generation UV filters approved by EU regulators, with rigorous testing to ensure superior broad-spectrum protection and all-day stability.”

Region-Fit SKUs

Be transparent that US, EU and AU have different sunscreen frameworks, hence region-specific variants exist to meet local rules without compromising results. Savvy consumers appreciate honesty about regulatory complexity.

Sample positioning: “Because sun protection regulations differ globally, we’ve created region-specific formulas optimised for local standards, ensuring you get the best SPF performance allowed in your market.”

Budget Reality: What Reformulation Costs

Reformulation isn’t cost-neutral. Alternative silicones, advanced mineral dispersion systems, and newer-generation UV filters typically carry 15-30% higher raw material costs. Additional expenses include:

R&D time (6-12 months for complex reformulations)
Stability and compatibility testing
Clinical testing for SPF and UVA protection verification
Updated PIFs and regulatory submissions
New artwork and packaging
Retail education and sales training

However, brands that move early can position the transition as premiumization with “next-generation formulas with enhanced environmental profiles” rather than absorbing costs silently or passing them to consumers as pure price increases. Consider phased launches that allow premium positioning for reformulated products while managing existing inventory.

Strategic pricing options:

Maintain price, absorb cost, leverage sustainability positioning for market share gain
Modest increase (5-10%) positioned as formula upgrade with superior performance
Tiered portfolio: reformulated premium line + value line in compliant markets only

Bottom Line

Cyclic silicone and UV filter policies are converging on a single direction: fewer legacy materials and more proof. Men’s products are in the spotlight because they rely on light textures, fast dry-down and daily SPF, exactly the attributes that legacy volatile siloxanes and high-load organic filters delivered efficiently.

By locking in silicone alternatives now and redesigning SPF systems around today’s EU limits, US GRASE realities and Australian TGA pathways, brands can stay ahead of regulation and keep pace with the sensorial bar men expect.

The opportunity: Brands that execute reformulation well won’t just achieve compliance. They’ll own the narrative around next-generation men’s grooming that performs better and treads lighter on the planet. Those that delay risk rushed reformulations, inventory write-offs, and loss of retail confidence.

The clock is ticking toward mid-2026. Start now.