I was recently featured in The Sydney Morning Herald discussing the growing popularity of Korean sunscreens in Australia and why, despite the hype, most cannot legally be sold here
The article, “Popular but not sold here, what’s wrong with Korean sunscreens?” (February 4, 2026), explores a question many brands and consumers are asking:
If Korean sunscreens are so advanced and elegant, why aren’t they on Australian shelves?
As a cosmetic chemist and regulatory consultant, this is a conversation I am having more frequently with founders, manufacturers and importers.
Let’s break it down properly.
The Core Issue: Sunscreen Is Not “Just Skincare” in Australia
Globally, skincare is increasingly blurring the line between cosmetics and sun protection. Korean sunscreens are celebrated for their lightweight textures, invisible finishes and seamless integration into daily skincare routines.
But in Australia, sunscreen is not treated as a cosmetic.
It is regulated as a therapeutic good.
That single difference changes everything.
Under the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), primary sunscreens must:
- Be listed on the ARTG (Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods)
- Use only approved UV filters (currently 30 permitted actives)
- Meet strict stability, efficacy and safety requirements
- Comply with Australian SPF testing standards
- Meet water resistance substantiation requirements
- Follow specific labelling rules (AUST L or AUST R)
This framework exists because Australia has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world and some of the harshest UV exposure levels globally
Regulation here is not cosmetic. It is medical-grade accountability.
How Korean Sunscreens Are Classified
In South Korea, sunscreens are regulated as “functional cosmetics,” a category overseen by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS).
While still regulated, the framework is fundamentally different.
Key distinctions:
- More UV filters are permitted
- Faster approval pathways for new filters
- SPF reflects UVB protection
- UVA protection is graded using the PA system (PA+ to PA++++)
- Water resistance standards differ from Australia
Both Australia and Korea use ISO 24444 for SPF testing. However, regulatory interpretation, claims and compliance thresholds differ significantly
This is why a sunscreen that is compliant in Seoul may not be compliant in Sydney.
Why They Cannot Be Sold Here (Without Reformulation)
The article highlights the key barrier: regulatory alignment
Many Korean sunscreens use advanced chemical UV filters not currently approved by the TGA. Bringing a new UV filter into Australia requires extensive safety data, toxicology review and regulatory submission. The investment is substantial.
This is often where brands pause.
Some Korean manufacturers reformulate for the US (FDA) or Europe (where sunscreens are treated as cosmetics). But Australia remains one of the most stringent markets globally.
At pH Factor, we are actively in discussions with Korean manufacturers about the correct pathway to bring compliant sunscreens into Australia
It is possible. But it must be done properly.
Water Resistance: A Major Difference
One of the most overlooked issues is water resistance.
In Australia, water resistance claims must demonstrate maintenance of labelled SPF after water immersion. Terms like “waterproof” are not permitted.
In Korea:
- “Water resistant” requires maintaining at least 50% of SPF after 40 minutes
- “Durably water resistant” requires maintaining at least 50% after 80 minutes
These are very different benchmarks.
In a country where beach culture, sport and outdoor activity are part of daily life, durability matters.
Climate, Lifestyle and Behaviour
Another key point raised in the article is lifestyle.
Australia regularly records UV index levels exceeding 12. Any level above 3 can cause damage
Korean sunscreens are often formulated for cosmetic elegance. Australian sunscreens must withstand sweat, swimming, high UV intensity and extended outdoor exposure.
This does not mean one is better than the other.
It means they are formulated for different regulatory and environmental contexts.
A Note to Brands and Founders
If you are:
- Importing Korean skincare
- Planning to launch a sunscreen in Australia
- Considering SPF claims within a cosmetic
- Unsure whether your product requires ARTG listing
- Navigating AICIS versus TGA classification
- Unsure about UV filter approvals
Please do not assume global compliance equals Australian compliance.
It does not.
The cost of getting this wrong can include product recalls, border seizure, fines or forced withdrawal.
At pH Factor, we work with a network of formulation chemists, regulatory specialists and testing laboratories to guide brands through:
- TGA pathways
- UV filter assessment
- ARTG listing strategy
- ISO SPF testing coordination
- Label compliance
- Reformulation strategies
- Import compliance for cosmetics and sunscreens
If you need guidance, reach out.
And Finally, My Position on Sun Protection
I will always say this:
Do not rely on sunscreen alone.
Sunscreen is a filter. That is literally what UV filters do.
Real protection in Australia comes from:
- Broad spectrum SPF
- Hats
- Protective clothing
- Shade
- Smart timing outdoors
Sunscreen is one tool. It is not invincibility in a bottle.
In Australia, sun safety isn’t a summer conversation. It’s a year-round responsibility. Science matters. Regulation matters. And context matters.
If you are a brand looking to enter the Australian market properly, we are here to help you do it the right way.
Rita Sellars
Director & Chief Formulating Chemist
pH Factor